The Original San Francisco Bay Water Trail
November 17, 2012
A few centuries ago, several tribes in California made canoe-like boats from bundles of tule (reeds) that had been cut, dried and woven together. These tule boats, and sometimes rafts, were used for hunting, fishing and transportation in and around San Francisco Bay.
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I became interested in tule boats when I saw them on display in museums and visitors centers during my 1,000 mile walk around San Francisco Bay, following the San Francisco Bay Trail. I was fortunate to find a few people last month (November 2012) who knew how to build tule boats, and was able to witness two tule boats come to life on a drizzly Saturday in Marin County.
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It turns out Kennard built some of the tule boats I saw on my walk around the bay. I caught up with him at a workshop for a group of students participating in an Aim High program in the Tennessee Valley area (west of area shown on Marin area map) about a mile inland from the Pacific Ocean.
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I arrived mid-way in the boat construction process, taking place inside a large horse barn. The barn had plenty of covered space to build two tule boats. A previously built canoe-style tule boat was suspended against one wall.
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The front end of this particular boat design came to a high point and the back had a chopped off look. I was told that there were likely at least four different tule boat designs that were used in San Francisco Bay Area. (Other tule boats, and in fact whole tule islands, can be found in Mexico, Peru and other countries.)
I asked Kennard why tules were so well suited for boats. "The interior of the stems consist of narrow, 1/2 inch long air-filled cells, making them buoyant," he explained. That was a good description of the structural advantage of tule. However, it doesn't fully explain the emotional connection one feels in actually creating and floating in one of these craft, as I was about to experience. This feeling, Kennard later commented, was not unusual; and he credits the elemental and historic nature of the material for inspiring this connection. I couldn't help but wonder if we'd lost something of value (such as working with free, sustainable resources, with our own hands) over time.
Once completed, the boats were inspected, loose tule ends were trimmed with a knife. And the boats were carefully lifted and carried outside to a truck, where they were loaded, placed together, on their sides. Boats and students were transported to a large pond toward (but inland from) the beach. Life jackets were donned, safety instructions given, and kayak paddles were used to help maneuver boats into the water.
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Image of San Francisco Bay Water Trail map is from San Francisco Bay Water Trail website.
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